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Motorcycle Articles
Table of Contents:
- Can You Make the Grade?
- In case of a tie, the train always wins.
- Check It Out
- Would you fly with an airline whose pilots skipped their checklists?
- Clothes Make the Man
- Though clothes may not make the man they certainly help protect him.
- Conspicuity
- Conspicuity means more than just making yourself seenit means making yourself easy to recognize.
- Co-Rider’s Handbook
- So you’re the co-rider this trip.
- Failing-Grade
- The train always has the right-of-way.
- Formula for a Fatality
- Want to log a thousand miles in 24 hours on a motorcycle? Think again.
- Gray Matter
- Carl Sandberg wrote poetry about it; motorcyclists curse it. It’s fog.
- Hot!
- Riding in hot weather presents its own challenges.
- How Was Harry Hurt?
- Harry Hurt shows the most important things we can do to avoid an accident.
- I’m Safe
- There is an easy-to-remember checklist which allows the rider to check out himself before a trip.

- The Invisible Man
- Dress a rider in black from head to toe, put him on a black bike, and he’s the Invisible Man.
- Limits
- To ride safely, we must know the limits of ourselves, our machines and our environment, and ride within them.
- Learning to Ride
- I learned to ride two waysthe hard way and the right way. I can tell you the right way is far, far better.
- One Bridge Too Many
- “As you start to cross the bridge, something happens.
- Over the Counter and Out
- Over the counter drugs can have dangerous effects for people who are exposed to heat.
- Practice Makes Perfect
- Skills which degrade in a few months can be retuned in a few minutes of practice.
- “Rain” is a four-letter Word
- One word that can raise the hackles on the neck of any rider is “Rain.”
- Say What You Mean
- When we do something we know to be dangerous “just this once” we’re saying “it can’t happen to me.”
- Stop the Machine!
- With a few good techniques and a little practice, you can stop your bike a lot faster than you think.
- Two Up = Heads Up
- Two-up riding is a team working together to make the ride fun and safe.
- Why do I Teach?
- This is what teaching is all aboutto see the magic happen.
- Winter Warmups
- There’s a whole different world of riding in the winter.
- You Are Getting Very Sleepy…
- It’s our two arch enemies, fatigue and drowsiness, talking to us again in their usual monotones.
- You Must be Crazy to Ride a Motorcycle
- There is risk in operating a motorcycle. The trick is to manage the risks and not to take dumb risks.
Can You Make the Grade?
by Robert Vaughan
Can you judge how long it will take a train to get to the grade crossing? Will the gates come down on time, or do they give you time to ride around them and still make it safely?
Cars often have trouble judging a motorcycle’s distance and speed because we are smaller than cars. A train’s distance and speed are hard to judge for the opposite reasontrains are so large. Large objects appear to be moving slower than they are. When a jet is coming in for a landing, it appears to be moving very slowly, though it is really doing about 150 miles an hour.
Viewing the train almost head-on gives it little apparent motion and makes it seem even slower. The parallel lines of the tracks going toward the train make it look further away than it really is. The combined effect of the train’s looking both slower and farther away than it really is give us a false sense of security. Most trains take about two minutes to clear a crossing. It only seems longer. Yet, many people gamble two minutes against a lifetime, a real sucker’s bet.
Don’t the crossing gates have a safety margin built in so we actually have plenty of time after they first come down? The answer is sometimes, but not always. The gates are timed for a fast train and activate when the train is a quarter mile from the crossing. If all trains were fast, the train would always be at the crossing within 25 seconds. Even slow trains make the crossing within a minute. Unfortunately, the slow trains also make us think that we always have extra time. If everyone took this extra time for granted we would be fine for all the slow trains. However, the first fast train coming down the track would make mincemeat of all the drivers who didn’t make it.
Railroads are now experimenting with new types of crossing signs and new ways to paint engines. Operation Lifesaver has helped to reduce crossroad fatalities. The highway department has even put a radio-equipped officer in the locomotive who looks for motorists who drove around the crossing arms. He has street patrols ticket the driver. Unfortunately, railroads and highway departments can’t help the driver who sees the train but decides he can beat it across the crossing. In case of a tie, the train always wins.
As motorcyclists, this reinforces something we learned long agothe biggest vehicle has the right of way. It’s easier to fight city hall than Southern Pacific.
Copyright © 1996-2007 by Robert Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Check It Out
by Robert Vaughan
Would you feel safe flying on a plane if you heard this conversation between the pilot and copilot:
“Let’s skimp on the checklists today. The plane looks safe enough.”
“Tires?”
“They didn’t look flat so the pressure is probably OK.”
“Lights?”
“The ones I can see from here work.”
“Oil?”
“It was fine last week.”
“Brakes?”
“We have twoI’m sure at least one works.”
“Windshield?”
“It’s not all that dirty.”
“I only slept four hours last night so let’s not waste any more time here. Let’s fly this baby!”
You might think twice about going on the trip at all if your pilots weren’t interested enough in safety to do a proper checklist.
Is piloting a bike that’s carrying your spouse any less important? You know the answer.
Tires need the correct pressure to prevent overheating (read “blowout”), excessive wear (read “expensive”). Not looking flat isn’t enough. The only way to know the pressure is right is to use a tire gauge. Check the tires while cold. Write down the correct pressure for your tires, and keep it in the bike.
Lights are something we don’t think about until one goes out that we can see from the rider’s seat. Yet the taillight is what lets the car behind you see you before he runs over you. The co-rider can easily check the brake lights, taillights, and turn signals while you sit on the bike and push a few buttons.
How important is your oil? (Read “How expensive is your engine?”) No, you don’t check the oil by looking at the engine temperature gauge. There is a convenient dipstick made just for that purpose. Don’t be a dipstick, use the one on the bike.
Always using both brakes to stop or slow is the proper way to use brakes but the wrong way to check them. If one of three brakes starts getting weak, the other two will hide this fact. Try using only the brake lever to check the one front brake that the lever operates. Then you will have an idea how that brake is working. Using only the brake pedal with an integrated braking system uses two brakesone front and the rear. Testing the brake pedal this way makes it easier to know whether one of these two brakes is not up to par. Of course the best way to check out all three brakes is during the bike’s regular service.
Perhaps the windshield is the easiest of all to check. You can look at it as you are walking up to the bike. Are those bug spots you see? It takes only a minute or so to clean them off. They may be only an annoyance in the daytime, but you need all the visibility you can get at night. Another time a dirty windshield really shows up is when you head directly into the sun. That’s when you’ll really wish you’d taken an extra minute or two to clean your windshield. When you have your cleaner out to clean your windshield, you might also clean your faceshield and your glasses. Then the whole world will look cleaner.
Your bike’s checklist should be something you use before every ride, just as a pilot uses his before every flight.
Check it out!
Copyright © 1996-2007 by Robert Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Clothes Make the Man
by Robert Vaughan
When Harry Hurt at the University of Southern California (USC) did his famous study of motorcycle accidents, he found that though clothes may not make the man they certainly help protect him. Covering yourself with leather or another thick material such as Kevlar or Cordura can offer a very high level of protection.
Cycle magazine tested materials for their abrasion resistance. The two types of tests Cycle did gave similar results. If you weight 75 pounds and have a body like a milk crate then your wardrobe would fall into three classes: Denim and lightweight leather for minimum protection, Cordura Nylon and Kevlar for five times the protection, and competition weight leather for twenty times the protection.
If, on the other hand, you have a tendency to sit on grinding wheels, you can stay seated twice as long wearing Cordura Nylon or Kevlar as you can wearing Denim or thirteen times as long wearing competition weight leather.
Road rash isn’t the most serious injury motorcyclists face, but it’s certainly one of the most painful. While you may not look like a milk crate or sit on grinding wheels, you should know that the better materials do give you something for your money besides a flatter billfold.
As a rule, riders buy non-specialized clothing such as denim and then wear it for a very specialized purpose. The best material for abrasion-resistance should combine a smooth texture in a thick layer to promote sliding, some rigidity to discourage adhesion, a flexible internal structure to stretch under abrasion, and enough thickness to withstand sustained abrasion. A deficiency in even one element can spell injury.
However, even the best materials won’t prevent injury if the garment is not well made and properly fitted. And, even if those criteria are met, if the garment isn’t fastened, it can’t do its job of keeping the rider unharmed.
It’s worthwhile to put as much money into the clothes we wear as we do into the accessories we put on our bikes.
Copyright © 1993-2007 by Robert Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Conspicuity
by Robert Vaughan
Conspicuity means more than just making yourself seenit means making yourself easy to recognize. Placing a strobe on your helmet will make you visible at night, but it certainly doesn’t make you recognizable. Seeing the two headlights of an oncoming truck doesn’t help if you think it is two motorcycles and try to go between them. Even if you could make yourself look the size of a tractor trailer truck, it wouldn’t be enough. Several studies have proven that reflective markings make even trailers safer.
To be conspicuous, an object must be recognized without confusion or ambiguity. Every second counts in avoiding a crash. A few tenths of a second spent deciding the meaning of what is seen can mean the difference between a close call and a hospital call.
Drivers go through four stages in responding to an object they see:
They detect it.
They identify it.
They make a decision to react.
They act.
Good conspicuity acts to shorten the reaction time in the first three stages.
White reflects five times more light than red but red means danger. It says stop. Red and white are used for stop signs and railroad crossings. Red also appears brighter to the human eye than it really is.
Drivers are used to interpreting these colors as something to avoid. Using the same colors at night on retroreflective tape on helmets or vests when riding a motorcycle will undoubtedly reduce our chances of being hit by making us both visible and recognizable as a motorcycle.
Copyright © 1996-2007 by Robert Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Co-Rider’s Handbook
by Robert Vaughan
So you’re the co-rider this trip. What could you do to make the ride more pleasurable for both you and the rider?
The Look
No, The Look is not a style of clothing. It’s even easier (and cheaper) than that. The Look is looking at the right place as the bike makes a turn. Why not take advantage of the same technique a trained rider uses to keep oriented in a turn? The place to look is over the rider’s shoulder in the direction of the turn. As you look over the rider’s right shoulder in a right turn, look all the way through the turn and keep your eyes level with the horizon. This means tilting your head away from the direction of the turn. If you’re turning right, lean your body right but keep your head vertical. Using The Look keeps you leaning with the rider and keeps you oriented properly so you can enjoy the turns even more.
A Sense of Direction
Wouldn’t you like your rider to pay more attention to the road and less to the map? If you think it’s hard to read a map while driving, it’s even harder to read a map while riding a motorcycle. The rider is usually glad to have someone else navigate. As a co-rider you can concentrate on the navigation, allowing the rider to concentrate on riding.
Preparation
A very short checklist can make any ride a lot more pleasant. Do you have rain gear, sunscreen, a map and sunglasses? These items are often not in plain sight but will be sorely missed if they are needed and not there. Of course, there is much more that can be put on your checklist for the trip. You do have a checklist, don’t you?
Not all preparation can be done just before the trip. Was the trip planned so the rider had a chance to get adequate sleep before starting? Working all day and riding all night is probably not the best plan for rider or co-rider.
Results
Investing a little time on preparation beforehand and a little effort on The Look and navigation during the ride can make it more pleasant for both the rider and the co-rider.
Copyright © 1996-2007 by Robert Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Failing Grade
by Collen Campbell
Theres an old riddle that goes Railroad crossing, look out for cars. Can you spell that without any Rs? Its funny to see how people try to spell the whole sentence without using the letter R. When it comes to railroad crossings though, its no laughing matter. Texas has the largest number of rails in the nation, which means it also has the most railroad crossings. Unfortunately, it also means that the state has the dubious distinction of having more deaths due to trains colliding with road vehicles (cars, etc.) than any other state. The kicker is, none of these deaths had to occur. So, why did they?
The primary reason is the misjudging of a trains speed. A train that appears to be stopped could easily be traveling at 30 to 70 mph. That gives the operator of a motor vehicle the false sense that he can get across the tracks before the train does. If the operator is lucky, hell make it. If not, the consequences are devastating. A motor vehicle, whether it is a motorcycle, a car, or a tractor-trailer never stands a chance against a 60-ton locomotive. To make matters worse, a train traveling at 70 mph may take up to one mile before it comes to a complete stop once the emergency brake is applied.
So why do these people take such a big chance? In our hurry up and get there world, we tend to through caution to the wind. No one wants to wait for a 90-car train to go by, it takes too long. So we go around crossing gates that are warning us to stay put. Instead of waiting only 2-5 minutes for the train to pass, we risk are lives. Wait! Did you read that right? Only 2-5 minutes? That is the average time it takes for a train to clear a crossing. Is that really worth losing your life over?
Heres another factor involved in some of these fatalities. Just as the vehicle is starting to cross the tracks, it stalls out. Now, the vehicle and the operator are sitting ducks for the oncoming train. Oh you say to yourself, but I ride a motorcycle and I can push it off the tracks. If youre lucky, maybe you can, but do you really want to bet your life on it? What if the tires get stuck in the rail groves? What if it has fallen over? What if the bike is loaded to maximum weight capacity? What if the train is moving faster than you thought it was?
How often have you seen, or perhaps done it yourself, a vehicle stopped on the tracks at a right light? There may not have been a train in sight when the operator stopped the vehicle there. The gamble here is that the light will change before a train ever shows up. Its a bad bet. The vehicle ahead could have mechanical problems. The traffic light could malfunction and fail to turn green. The may have been an accident at that intersection causing traffic in all direction to come to a complete stop. So that bet that the light would change before a train came, well take a look down the tracks now. See that white light? If thats you on those tracks, you gambled and you lost.
Why take the chance? Nobody wins when a train and a motor vehicle cross paths. Ask any train engineer. Theyll tell you their biggest fear is seeing a vehicle either sitting on the tracks, trying to go around the crossing gates, or just totally disregarding the warning signals. And yes, they know if the signals are working or not.
Theres one other thing to consider. Stopping on the tracks, as well as disregarding the warning signals is illegal. So, if you dont end up paying with your life, you may end up paying out of your wallet.
Treat trains with the respect they are due. Trains were here long before automobiles and motorcycles. Remember, the train always has the right-of-way. It is, after all, much bigger than you or your motorcycle.
Copyright © 2002 by Collen Campbell.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Formula for a Fatality
by Jackie Vaughan
There are many people who feel it is a badge of honor to log a thousand miles in 24 hours on a motorcycle. However, close examination shows this to be a rather dubious claim to fame.
To make the required mileage, the rider has to ride at excessive speeds for sustained lengths of time. High-speed highway riding is always high-risk riding, especially at night. Riding at high speed cuts time and distance to react, even in daylight. At night, by the time something breaks the headlight beam, there is no time to avoid it. This is called overriding the headlight. When the object is a deer, a vehicle, or the side of a boxcar, the results are never in the rider’s favor.
A rider who pauses only long enough to refill the tank does not take time to mentally refresh himself or to check his bike. His only focus is to get back on the road. He fails to notice a bubble in a tire or a drop in tire inflation. His taillight might have burnt out, or the chain may be loose. A sudden failure, especially at high speed, may result in a potentially fatal fall.
Add to that rider fatigue and you have a formula for a fatality. A fatigued rider’s senses begin to dull, impeding judgement and slowing reaction time. Droopy eyes don’t search the road effectively. Depth perception diminishes. White line fever develops and the rider’s attention strays. Coffee and caffeine pills wear off suddenly, leaving the rider suddenly overcome with the need for sleep.
These factors combine to make a deadly and often fatal mix. Is it worth the risk for a little pin? I think not.
Copyright © 2000 by Jackie Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Gray Matter
by Jackie Vaughan
It’s that time of year again. It begins in the evening and continues until midmorning. That misty gray stuff that covers the landscape and coats the road with a thin film of moisture. Carl Sandberg wrote poetry about it; motorcyclists curse it. It’s fog.
Fog can turn the best road into a slippery beast whose breath blinds the rider. While there are some techniques to control the monster, there are times when it’s wise to simply get off the road.
Some riders measure the density of the fog by how far they can see ahead. They use the stripe method. If they can see twenty stripes ahead, the fog is only moderate. Ten stripes mean a fairly nasty fog. When it gets down to two or three stripes, it’s time to pull off the road.
One technique some riders use it to tuck in close behind the vehicle ahead. This is great unless the car suddenly slams on the brakes and gives the biker a tour of his trunk and back seat. And what does it mean when those tail lights suddenly vanish? Perhaps that he’s closed the garage door. It is better to increase following distance to four to six seconds. This will allow the rider to react to any unexpected hazards.
Since visibility is limited, it would seem better to use high beams to see further. However, fog is composed of millions of tiny droplets of water, and each of these is like a minuscule mirror, throwing the full power of the high beams right back into the rider’s eyes and further limiting his ability to see. Low beams allow the rider to see.
It is easy to overdrive a motorcycle’s headlight under the best of circumstances. When it is foggy, there is only one thing to do--slow down!
Fog is made of water, and that gets on the road, making it very slick. Riders should avoid sudden changes in direction and speed. Braking and acceleration should be done slowly. Corners and turns should be made as close to vertically as possible.
And keep the gray matter in the brain working at full power.
Copyright © 1996 by Jackie Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Hot!
by Jackie Vaughan
Hot summer days make a convection oven look positively chilly. Riding in hot weather presents its own challenges. However, rather than staying home and missing all the fun, with a little planning it is still possible to enjoy our favorite roads.
Dressing properly is very important. A T-shirt and shorts are not the answer. Exposed skin is not only dangerous in a crash, it’s a major source of dehydration and sunburn. Add to that the long-term danger of skin cancer and covering up becomes the clear choice. Cover all exposed skin to reduce dehydration. There are some specialized clothes that purport to have UV resistance built in, but they are a bit on the pricey side. A long-sleeve cotton shirt, cotton jeans, and gloves, all normal safety wear, are the clothing of choice. Many riders use the old biker’s trick of soaking the body of a heavy cotton sweatshirt in water, leaving as much water in the shirt as possible. The sleeves are left dry from the elbows down, as well as from the waist down, to allow for moisture wicking down. The wet shirt becomes an evaporative cooler that leaves the rider in blissful comfort for at least an hour.
Apply plenty of sunscreen to the face and back of the neck, and if gloves are not worn, to the backs of the hands. Look for a product that is strongly water-resistant so it won’t run into the eyes from perspiration. Use at least SPF 30, and since sunscreen loses potency with age, make sure it’s fresh. Most people fail to put on enough sunscreen and do not reapply throughout their ride.
Start the ride well-hydrated, taking in at least a quart of liquid before departure. Contrary to logic, this will not necessitate extra pit stops. Take in at least a quart of liquid such as water or sports drinks every hour. If the temperature or heat index is very high, double that intake, since fluid loss can top a gallon an hour. Riders who do not need to make a pit stop every couple of hours are dehydrating and should sharply increase their fluid intake.
Break the ride into segments with extended cool-off periods every couple of hours. These can be refreshment stops, points of interest, or just spending 30 or 40 minutes in a cool gas station, sipping a sports drink. Caffeine tends to increase dehydration, as does alcohol.
Know the signs of heat exhaustion (profuse sweating, dizziness, flushed face, weakness, muscle cramps) and heat stroke (no sweating, pale face, shallow respiration, collapse). Riders and co-riders should watch for them in themselves and in others. At the first signs, seek a cool place and cool the victim down as quickly as possible. In heat stroke, seek emergency medical help.
With a little preparation and common sense, beating the heat is a lot more fun than staying home.
Copyright © 1996 by Jackie Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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How Was Harry Hurt?
by Robert Vaughan
Perhaps the most renowned study of motorcycle accident causes and countermeasures was done for the University of Southern California by researcher Harry Hurt. He investigated 900 motorcycle accidents and analyzed another 3600 motorcycle traffic accident reports. The Motorcycle Safety Courses developed by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation are designed largely to build the skills that the Hurt Study found to be missing in the accident-involved rider. Looking at just a few of the Hurt findings allows us to see the most important things we can do to avoid an accident.
Who hits us? Most accidents involve a car violating our right-of-way. Most frequently, the car turns left in front of the motorcycle.
Where do we get hit? Intersections are the most likely place for the motorcycle accident, with the car not only violating our right-of-way, but often traffic controls as well. Most accidents are on short trips such as shopping, errands, visiting friends, entertainment or recreation. Most accidents happen close to the trip origin. More than three-fourths of the hazards are within 45° of straight ahead.
Why do we get hit? The main reason is that the driver of the other vehicle does not see us in time to avoid the collision. Alcohol is involved in almost half of the fatal accidents. Most motorcyclists are smart enough to separate riding and drinking. Unfortunately, too many of the car drivers on the road are more mentally challenged.
Why aren’t we seen? Conspicuity of the motorcycle is the most critical factor. Conspicuity is most critical from the front.
How can we be seen? Accident involvement is significantly reduced by the wearing of high visibility yellow, orange or bright red jackets. It looks like we need to take extra care to make sure that we are seen. This means both the helmet (white or bright colors in the day and reflective material at night) and jacket should be highly visible. It also means positioning our motorcycles where we can be seen in traffic.
How else can we avoid accidents? Just paying attention to our driving improves our odds. We should use extra care on any motorcycle on which we have less than five months experience. Motorcycle rider courses reduce accidents and injuries in accidents. The courses teach the braking and swerving skills found to be lacking in many accident-involved riders. In many states, the Riding and Street Skill course also allows us to omit the on-street exam when we obtain our motorcycle license. Proper eye protection prevents the impaired vision which delays hazard detection.
How can we prevent injuries in an accident? Heavy boots, jackets, and gloves reduce or prevent road rash. Full coverage helmets increase protection and reduce face injuries.
Knowledge is power. Now we know where and why we get hit. We know how to make ourselves seen and how to avoid both accidents and injury. It’s up to us to put this knowledge to use.
Copyright © 1997 by Robert Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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I’m Safe
by Jackie Vaughan
Many people use a checklist to prepare for a trip. It might include gas, tire pressure, first aid kit, et cetera. One item often missing is the condition of the rider himself. Yet the rider’s condition is at least as important as the condition of the bike.
There is a checklist which allows the rider to check out himself before every trip. Easy to remember, the list is called I’m Safe. It stands for illness, medication, stress, alcohol, fatigue and emotion. Let’s take a look at how each of these factors affects us.
Illness:
Many illnesses such as diarrhea, headache or fever can blunt our senses and affect our ability to scan aggressively for hazards or our ability to react to these hazards quickly. Recovering from an illness can do the same.
Medication:
Medication such as sleeping pills, even taken the night before, or antihistamines can make us drowsy. Antibiotics do a good job of fighting infections but also leave us fatigued for several days.
Stress:
Just before a trip is not the best time to air our problems. We will be in a much better mood after a good trip. Take time to relax before starting. Another thing to remember: don’t bring the kids.
Alcohol:
Alcohol can be summed up in a single phrase-one drink per hour. Make sure there is no alcohol in your system before you ride.
Fatigue:
Working long hours at physical labor before a trip is a sure way to start the trip with fatigue.
Emotion:
We are all aware that being angry or sad at can keep our mind off our riding, but we should know that being very happy can do the same. We need to take time to think things out before we start.
Copyright © 1996 by Jackie Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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The Invisible Man
by Jackie Vaughan
The sun was balancing gently on the horizon as I packed up my gear after a long day of amusing the fish with my clumsy efforts. I was stowing the tackle box in the back of the truck when the sun abruptly winked out behind a large bank of very dark clouds.
The sun lost its battle with the clouds and sank below the horizon, leaving the heavily tree-lined road in a darkness that blended into the blacktop. Storm winds set the tops of the pine trees swaying, bringing down flurries of slippery pine needles and occasional pine cones. The first drops of rain were huge, splatting on the windshield and causing the pine needles to stick to it. The wipers only smeared them. All I could do was turn the wipers on high and hope the rain would wash the needles off.
Obligingly, the rain became a full-force pressure wash. The needles disappeared, but so did everything else. I crept along, the headlights’ beam absorbed by the darkness. A sudden movement caused by a falling branch reminded me there might well be deer, rabbits, or other animals on the side of the road, ready to cross without warning. I leaned as close to the windshield as I could get, eyes straining to see ahead and to the sides at the same time. I knew it wasn’t safe to stop because there was no place to pull over.
I thought I saw the red eye glow of an animal. Looking ahead, I saw it flickering between the swipes of the wipers. I immediately hit the brakes, glad for the anti-lock option I’d chosen. I juddered to a halt about ten feet from the animal, which hadn’t moved. I turned off my lights briefly so it would move on, but it remained.
I finally crept closer. As my headlights cut through the watery darkness, I saw it wasn’t an animal, but a black motorcycle stopped in the middle of the road. The rider was making futile swipes at his face shield, succeeding only in creating greater smears. His black leather jacket and pants were no match for the rain, and he was soaked from the top of his black helmet to the soles of his black boots. He finally pushed the face shield up, started the bike, and continued his miserable trek.
In a very short moment, he became the Invisible Man. Although the weather and the terrain helped to hide him, he had become invisible long before he ever slung a leg over his bike. He had done it by unknowing choice, by following tradition.
When he bought his motorcycle, he took that first sometimes fatal step. He chose the most popular color for a bikeblack. Black is the traditional color for everything motorcycle that’s not chrome. Black helmet, jacket, pants, boots, gloves, all to match the black motorcycle. Black can also be the color of death and mourning.
Black, far from being the friendly identifying color of the motorcycle community, is a rider’s major enemy. The majority of the time, especially when contrast is poor, such as dawn, dusk, dappled shade, or darkness, black disappears into the environment. Dress a rider in black from head to toe, put him on a black bike, especially one with a small, low taillight, and he’s the Invisible Man. He cannot be seen until the very last moment, and that’s sometimes too late.
The typical car driver is not motorcycle-aware, and a bike suddenly appearing seemingly out of nowhere may slow the driver’s reaction time or cause him to make the wrong decision. When there’s an collision of this type, is it the driver’s fault, or the rider’s? Both were culpable, but it is the rider who must bear more of the blame. He made himself nearly impossible to see, and it worked. He chose to be the Invisible Man.
Could he have become the Visible Man instead and avoided the price he paid? Yes, and all it would have taken was the right choices beginning when he bought his motorcycle.
His biggest mistake was to follow motorcycle tradition in making everything about him and his bike, except for the fancy bits of chrome, black. He should have heeded the old saw, “Bright is right.” A light- or bright-colored motorcycle should have been the first item on his list.
His next choice should have been a full-face white helmet with highly-reflective material all around it. No color matches or fancy graphics, just plain white. The first thing a motorist sees, or fails to see, is the rider’s helmet, because it’s the highest part visible. Next seen is the upper body, then the lower body and the motorcycle. By that time, the driver is too close for comfort.
While the bike and rider don’t have to look like a circus wagon, bright clothing and reflective material, especially on the upper body, are a must. A rider wanting the black leather look can wear a reflective orange vest while on the bike and tuck it into a saddlebag or tank bag when he arrives.
Adding extra lights on the back and sides of the bike creates greater visibility, too. Seeing a black-dressed rider on a black bike from the side is almost impossible. There’s virtually no contrast. Add a few lights and the riders’ bright clothing, and the bike suddenly appears.
Our miserable Invisible Man? He made it home that night because I followed at a safe distance behind him until he pulled into his driveway. He might not be so lucky next time.
Copyright © 2005 by Jackie Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Learning to Ride
by Jackie Vaughan
I learned to ride two waysthe hard way and the right way. I can tell you the right way is far, far better.
I was a motorcycle hater. No one loathed bikes like I did. Then my husband bought his brother’s little Yamaha 200 cc two-stroke. My husband had never ridden and the evil thing had tossed him off the back once when his brother gave him a ride.
My husband’s first effort wasn’t pretty. Remember that I hated motorcycles and was diametrically opposed to his having it. He got about four blocks from his brother’s house, with me following in the car. He had about 35 miles to go through Houston freeway traffic once he got out of the neighborhood. He kept dumping the clutch and stalling the engine. In frustration, he revved the engine and popped the clutch. The little beast was torquey and promptly popped a wheelie across the empty intersection and up into the yard across the street, where it fell over. My husband jumped up, knowing that if the bike hadn’t killed him, I was probably going to, and the bike with him. He yelled that he wasn’t hurt, but the bike was damaged. I went racing back to his brother’s house, yelling that it was Larry’s fault his brother was almost killed. Larry came running, expecting to find scattered parts of human and machine. Instead, there was a broken lever and a bent gear shift. The bike went back to Larry’s and my husband went home.
A friend kindly took Robert out on his Suzuki 380 and taught him the fundamentals. That same afternoon, Robert managed to make it home unscathed. Talk about dumb luck!
In the following two or three months, the malevolent machine, named Critter, managed to pop a weld in the header, almost deafening him before it was fixed, foul its plugs, and toss him into the road and smashing its new windshield when he hit a patch of ice.
Critter soon had a big brother, an magnificent 1978 Yamaha XS 11, macho maroon in color. It was a big 4-stroke and I was instantly in love. Robert had never carried a passenger, but we were too dumb to realize how much experience is needed.
I inherited Critter. Robert moved the bike into the street in front of our house and I got on. At least I knew to wear a helmet and long pants. He walked beside me as I made tiny progress. Then he ran beside me. At least we weren’t dumb enough to have him on the back of the bike as some people do. I got independent and took off and left him. When I got to the end of the block, I confused the brake and the clutch and ran into the intersection. A car was coming and the woman slammed on her brakes. She had no front bumper and the huge "crashbars" got caught on the bumper mount, pulling me and the bike against the car. She said some things I richly deserved and I profusely apologized. We gave her $20 for the broken bumper mount and I walked the bike back home, limping from the huge bump and technicolor bruise that immediately formed. It was not a propitious start to riding.
I managed to get a little better in the following days and thought I was flying when I hit 20 mph. My husband finally coaxed me to venture out of the neighborhood onto a back road. He said it would be a lot easier and more fun.
There was only one small problem. There was a slight slope onto the main road. I couldn’t coordinate brake, clutch, and throttle to get started. I sat there for an hour and a half. Traffic was backed up to the back of the subdivision and horns were honking angrily. Some whipped around me. I covered the tank with tears of frustration.
The gods of motorcycling must have taken pity on me, because I finally got out onto the road. Wheee! I was roaring along at about 30 when a car passed me. It scared me to death.
I finally got the hang of it and we made jaunts of about 150 miles with the friend who taught Robert the basics.
We had an accident on the XS 11 because of inexperience and lack of knowledge. Some cosmetic damage to the bike and a broken wrist for me. Robert was on the front, and took the pockets out of his pants. We were very, very lucky that time. We both got back to riding.
Critter continued its evil ways, throwing its chain and flattening a tire. Then, in 1980, Yamaha created the Maxim, and I was in love! I got one of the first in the city. I put a color matched full fairing on it and went out to play with the big boys. It made my heart smile.
The third day I had it, I was making a right-hand turn when the truck in front of me stopped abruptly. I was already leaned to the right and the ground sloped away, so down I went. No damage to me, but there was a tiny scratch on my tank and one on the brake lever. I was crying and swearing at the same time.
Sometime in 1981, I really learned to ride, and so did Robert. We took an MSF class. I’d like to tell you what we learned, but it’s far too much to put here. We realized a lot of what we were doing was wrong, and there was a lot we just plain didn’t know. What we learned that weekend saved my life on the way home that night. A car pulled out of a crossover which is in front of a beer joint. Without what I’d learned, I would have hit him. As it was, I simply made a safe stop and let him go on his way.
Later that year, we happened to meet one of our instructors, who invited us to be helpers at the classes. We did, and in 1982, we became fully certified MSF instructors. Every time we taught a class, our skills improved, too.
Then, about 15 years ago, the class was completely changed from a task-oriented one to a technique-based one. Everything students learned translated directly to any bike they rode.
Now we had a lot of the tools that had been missing. How to stop quickly on a curve, how to avoid going off a curve, how to set up for curves, how to corner correctly, how to turn from a stop, and most of all, the amazing technique of visual control. Visual control wows even experienced riders.
The motorcycle goes where you look. Robert and I have won awards for our teaching, but the real reason we teach is because we’re making safe riders and saving lives, besides making riding buddies.
I still feel the magic of seeing someone who’s never even sat on a motorcycle go from tiptoeing up to the bike as if it’s going to bite to mounting the bike with confidence and knowing they are in control and able to do a lot more than just start the engine, operate the clutch and gear shift, and apply the brakes. They know how to avoid obstacles, how to anticipate hazards, how to stop quickly, turn sharply, and avoid the problems most shown to cause accidents. They are riders, and good ones.
I had one student, 16, who came into the class saying her 250 cc scooter was way too much for her to ride. When the class was over, she dragged her parents over to my bike, mounted it, and brought it off its sidestand (I had the key in my pocket!) and told her parents she didn’t want that scooter, she wanted a real bike like mine. The joy was I know she could handle it.
The best way to ride? Take an MSF rider course. Studies have shown that 92% of accident involved riders are either self taught or taught by friends.. Your friends are a garden of misinformation. Your instructors are a wealth of real knowledge. Which do you want to learn from?
Copyright © 2002 by Jackie Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Limits
by Jackie Vaughan
Everything in life has limits. When we were young, we had bedtimes that were far too early, especially on a summer night, or when something good was on TV. As we got older, curfews and the frustrations of limited spending money chafed us. We were pretty much controlled by how often and how long we could borrow the car. Still, we stretched and broke the limits with only minor repercussions.
As riders we have limits, too, and these, unlike legal limits such as speed and right-of-way, can only be stretched so far before the consequences become very dire indeed. These limits are our personal limits, the limits of our machines, and the limits of our environment. To ride safely, we must know these limits and ride within them. This would be a fairly easy task if the limits were fixed and separate. However, they are each highly variable and intertwined so that one can affect the others.
Personal limits change constantly. There are the slow, but perceptible signs of aging when we finally don glasses that eventually give way to bifocals and when hearing dims. As we reach the over-the-hill age of 40, night vision begins to lessen. With any luck, skill and experience provide compensation.
Not even the young among us are immune to personal limits. We are all susceptible. These limits can be imposed by physical conditions such as fatigue or emotion or by medications, both over-the counter and prescription. New prescriptions can have unexpected side effects, and drug interactions can produce terrifying reactions. Medications should be carefully discussed with doctor and pharmacist before we ride. Getting all prescriptions filled at the same pharmacy lessens the chance of a conflict or overdose not being spotted. Recreational drugs create dangers that should be obvious.
Over-the-counter drugs frequently pose problems. Almost every label on allergy medications carries the warning, "May cause drowsiness. Do not operate heavy machinery while taking this medication." By heavy machinery they don’t mean bulldozers or tanks. They mean cars and trucks and motorcycles and riding lawnmowers and anything else where a drowsy, dizzy or uncoordinated operator could have an accident. Almost every skill needed to safely operate a motorcycle is affected by such medicines.
Even when we’re at our physical best, our motorcycles pose limits. Obvious ones are type and power. A fully loaded touring bike is not made to ride over sand dunes at the beach, nor is a two-up 125-cc bike safe on the interstate. Even the best-maintained bike is subject to routine wear and tear. New tires are slick until the mold release wears off. Cheap tires can offer poor traction under even optimum conditions. Brake pads wear. A poorly cared for bike is two-wheeled disaster.
Even when our bikes and we are in tip-top condition, the environment can sharply define our limits. A twisty back road is a joy on a warm sunshiny day. The same road on a cold, wet night is a rider’s nightmare. Cold can dull our reflexes and slow our reaction times. Numbed hands operate controls more slowly and with less feedback, making full-braking stops less effective. Nature can brush a road with sand or mist it with rain or fog. Our only choice is to slow down and to avoid any sudden changes in speed or direction. We should never be so dumb that we don’t realize it is time to get off the road.
Our limits, the limits of our machines, and natural limits, all combined in endless permutations, are part of the challenge of motorcycling. Knowing these limits and riding within them are part of the responsibility of motorcycling. And that is part of the joy of motorcycling.
Copyright © 1995 by Jackie Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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One Bridge Too Many
by Collen Campbell
You wake up and see the sun shining. Looks like a good day for a ride. The weather report agrees. It will be sunshine and a high in the mid-sixties. The current temperature is 40 degrees. You know about the wind-chill factor, so you bundle up to stay warm during the ride. After a pre-ride check of the motorcycle, you’re off.
Twisting down the back roads, you’re enjoying the ride and the scenery. There’s a bridge up ahead. Shouldn’t be a problem, you’ve already crossed several bridges. As you start to cross this one, something happens. All of a sudden you lose traction on both tires. It’s almost like the motorcycle is skiing across the bridge. You make it to the other side and regain traction and control. Although your nerves are a little unsettled, you continue. The main difference now is you slow down before crossing any other bridges. The rest of the ride is uneventful. Still, you can’t help but wonder what happened.
The answer to this mystery is simple--ice. Even though the weather report indicated the temperature was 40 degrees, which is above the freezing mark, temperature readings are taken at certain locations, such as airports, downtown, and radio stations. Temperatures in rural areas can, and usually are, lower than what they would be in urban areas.
Why on this one particular bridge there was ice, but not on the others? Several factors are involved. One is the amount of traffic that crosses the bridge. Fraction from tires and heat from the exhaust of vehicles can cause ice to melt where the traffic flow is moderate to heavy. This doesn’t mean you should still be wary of bridges in these types of areas. It could still be on the shoulder or on the least traveled lane of the roadway and bridge. Bridges that are lightly traveled could easily remain iced for longer periods.
What about the roadway leading to the bridge? Why wasn’t ice on it? The ground acts as an insulator and will maintain a certain degree of warmth. Bridges are open and exposed, plus they are usually made of metal and concrete; thus lacking the ability to create warmth enough to melt the ice.
What to do to prevent a similar situation from occurring? First, understand that temperatures may vary from area to area. Some areas, such as near the coast, will be warmer than others especially in rural areas and further north.
Second, when temperatures are near the freezing mark, even around 40 degrees, use caution around bridges. Always suspect there may be ice on them. Better still, wait until a little later in the day, when the sun has had time to warm the bridge and melt the ice.
Third, slow down prior to reaching the bridge and reduce lean angle. You want as much available traction as possible from your tires.
Finally, what should you do if you hit a patch of ice? Squeeze the clutch in and coast through it. Avoid any abrupt changes in speed or direction. Once past the patch of ice, slowly ease the clutch back out. The key words here are "slowly ease." Never grab or squeeze the brakes on ice.
Stay alert to the conditions of the environment. Remember that it constantly changes and, as a result, the rider must adjust accordingly.
Copyright © 2001 by Collen Campbell.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Over the Counter and Out
by Jackie Vaughan
While over-the-counter drugs are generally considered safe and effective, they can have dangerous effects for people who are exposed to heat. Read directions on medications carefully and be alert for side effects. Below are some medications which can affect you when riding in hot weather:
| Medication vs Heat |
|
Medication
|
Ingredients to Watch
|
Possible Side Effects
|
Precautions
|
|
Allergy Medications
|
Diphenhydramine hydrochloride, chlorpheniramine, brompheniramine maleate, phenyltoloxamine citrate and triprolidine hydrochloride (antihistamines) |
Drowsiness, impaired coordination, slowed reaction time |
Take the medication after heat exposure or wait three to four hours before heat exposure. These medicines tend to dry you up so you don’t sweat efficiently |
|
Cough/Cold Medications
|
Pseudoephedrine, phenylephrine hydrochloride, phenylpropanolamine hydrochloride, prophylhexedrine and ephedrine (decongestants) |
Nervousness, shakiness, headache, fast or pounding heartbeat, elevated blood pressure and high energy and alertness, followed by fatigue |
Take an hour or two before riding in the heat and reduce dosage |
|
Menstrual Relief Medications
|
Pamabrom |
Dehydration leading to muscle cramps, heat exhaustion, or heat stroke |
Take after riding in the heat, drink plenty of liquids, and eat potassium rich foods such as bananas and orange juice |
|
Arthritis/Pain Medications
|
Aspirin, acetaminophen, phenyltoxolamine, ibuprofen |
Mask pain, which can delay recognition of more serious problems |
Avoid taking or take fewer |
It’s always best to avoid becoming overheated. Use wet sweatshirts and cold collars to help keep cool. Take in lots of liquids. A little common sense can help you avoid heat-induced problems and make your summer riding a lot more fun.
Copyright © 1996 by Jackie Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Practice Makes Perfect
by Robert Vaughan
Your skills are good. You ride every week. Last year you took the Basic Rider Course and this year you took the Experienced Rider Course. Turning around in the street, two-up, is a breeze. And you do your SIPDE so well, watching 12-15 seconds ahead, that you can’t remember the last time you had to do an emergency braking or swerving maneuver.
But perhaps the problem is that you are so good at avoiding using emergency maneuvers that you’re out of practice. If you ride properly you don’t get to practice some of your skills on the street. That doesn’t mean you should let them deteriorate until the next time you take a rider course.
That’s why they make parking lots. And you thought those painted yellow lines were just there to corral the cars. Their real purpose is to provide a marked area to practice so you can keep all your skills sharp-not just the ones you use every day. The same skills which degrade in a few months can be retuned in a few minutes of practice.
Quick stops are easy to practice on a good parking lot with a good surface. Bring your speed up to 15-20 mph, look at a distant object straight ahead, and squeeze the front brake while you press on the rear brake. You squeeze quickly, progressively and hard. Do not grab the front brake. If you keep the speed the same for several tries while you start braking at the same yellow line, you can measure your progress.
Now comes the fun part-swerving around an object. Recently, one study found that an expert rider could swerve as sharply on his Wing as he could on a much smaller bike. Make sure you got your bank angle sensor replaced by Honda (for free) if your bike was recalled for that. If not, when your Wing dies after a sharp swerve, you will need to turn the key off and back on before you can restart your engine. If your sensor is a good one, you won’t believe just how quickly you can swerve. Try swerving around an eight foot wide obstruction (tennis balls cut in half) at 15 mph. Remember, do not brake or downshift while swerving.
Once you bring these two skills up to par, it’s time to put them together. Quick stops on a curve require you to (1) straighten up before you (2) brake hard to stop. Let’s look at that order again. First press on the handlebar near the outside of the curve. (If you’re turning right, press left.) Press until the bike is completely vertical. Be sure to straighten the handlebars as the bike straightens up. Once you are straight, all your traction is available for stopping. Look at a distant object straight ahead, and quickly and progressively squeeze the front brake while you press on the rear brake.
You have just put two skills (swerving and stopping) together (but not too closely) to practice quick stops on a curve. Now you’re ready to go out and face the world again, much better prepared than when you rode into that parking lot. You’ve tuned yourself up for another few months.
Copyright © 1996 by Robert Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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"Rain" is a four-letter Word
by Robert Vaughan
One word that can raise the hackles on the neck of any rider is "Rain." Though no one goes out riding just because it’s raining, but you do get stuck in the rain at times. What can you do to improve your riding in the rain?
The first things you can do are done well ahead of the first few drops of rain. Much as you hate to think about it, selecting and purchasing a rainsuit is something that must be done. A rainsuit should serve two purposes. First, it should keep you dry. Second, and equally important, it should increase your visibility. When your evasive maneuverability is reduced by lack of traction, you want to be sure other drivers see you.
Maintaining all your lights also helps you to be seen in the rain. Of course you keep your lights clean, but have you checked all your lights lately to see if any of them have burned out? Do you carry any spares with you? Next time you take your bike in for service, why not restock any spare bulbs you might be missing? You should stock spare fuses as well.
The other important part that needs maintaining ahead of time is your tires. Have you looked at them lately? If any of the wear bands are showing, it’s time to replace the tire. One of the major causes of hydroplaning is worn tires. It’s too late to check them after the rain starts falling. The sole purpose of the tread design on a tire is to carry off the water, but it can’t do its job if you don’t allow it enough tread depth to work with.
Hydroplaning occurs when the tires are not in full contact with the road. They ride on a thin layer of water, and sometimes oil, on the road. Hydroplaning occurs frequently in light mist or drizzle. Proper tread depth and tire pressures, slowing down, and riding in the tracks of other vehicles all help reduce the chance of hydroplaning. The cessation of a slushing sound or any decrease in steering or braking may indicate hydroplaning. If this happens, slow down without braking and avoid any sudden moves.
Plan alternate routes in case of rain. Scenic, twisty asphalt roads are a lot of fun when it’s dry. When the rain starts to pour, the scenery turns gray, the turns aren’t nearly as much fun, and the asphalt doesn’t provide the traction you really need. It’s time to look for an alternate route along a duller, but straighter, concrete road.
Once it starts raining, there are still things you can do to increase your safety, if not your comfort. Pull off the road as soon as you find a place to get out of the rain. This gives you a dry place to put on your high-visibility rainsuit, and more important, it puts you off the road during the most dangerous first fifteen minutes of rain. When the water first enters the pores of the road, it forces up the oil that has been collecting there. A few more minutes of rain will wash this oil off the road.
Though the main danger of rain is hydroplaning, increasing your following distance, taking curves more slowly, and increasing your scanning distance all help your rain riding.
Riding in the rain may never be pleasant, but it can be safer.
Copyright © 1996 by Robert Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Say What You Mean
by Jackie Vaughan
Sometimes our words and our actions are in direct contradiction to each other. This is especially true in many of the ways we ride.
When we fail to wear our helmets in parking lots, we’re saying it’s only possible to have an accident or a fall on the highway, probably at high speeds. Yet parking lots are some of the most dangerous places we ride. They’re often crowded, with limited visibility and uneven surfaces. The people in them are usually in a hurry and certainly not looking for motorcycles.
When we fail to put on full protective gear, we’re assuring ourselves and our co-riders we are so good we can’t possibly have an accident, and all the other drivers out there are excellent, skillful, and alert at all times, too.
When we encourage our co-riders to wear shorts, sandals, and sleeveless shirts, we may speak the words, "I love you," but the unspoken message is "I don’t care if a large area of your skin is scraped off and you have to have endless plastic surgeries and are covered with deep, ugly scars." We may also be saying, "I don’t care if you sunburn so badly your legs, arms, chest and back are covered with huge watery blisters."
When we wear clothing made of synthetic materials, we are saying we’re tough enough not to cry when that melted material is peeled out of our road rash.
When we ride at excessive speeds, we may be convinced we’re able to handle them. What we’re not reminding ourselves is that we’ve used up our margin for error and the unexpected can happen at any moment.
When we do something we know to be dangerous "just this once" we’re saying "it can’t happen to me."
Do you believe that?
Copyright © 1996 by Robert Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Stop the Machine!
by Robert Vaughan
Screeeeeeeeech!
Beeeeeeeeeeeep!
"Did you see that car? He came from behind that 18-wheeler and ran the red. I almost hit him."
Has this ever happened to you? Ever wonder just how fast you can stop your bike?
With a few good techniques and a little practice the answer is a lot faster than you think. The two main techniques are squeezing the front brake rapidly instead of grabbing it, and taking advantage of the weight shift to use even more front brake. The practice takes just a few minutes in a parking lot about three times a year.
As you start braking, about half your weight is on each wheel. If you apply both brakes hard without grabbing the front brake, your weight will shift forward and you can squeeze the front brake even harder, while you let up a little on the rear. It only takes about half a second for your weight to shift so you can add more front brake. It is because of this weight change that about 70% of your braking power is on the front. With all the extra weight on the front, the front tire gets harder to lock, while the rear gets easier to lock.
If you ever lock the front tire, release the front brake and come right back down on it. This is exactly the opposite of what you want to do with the rear if it locks. You can release a locked rear if you’re perfectly straight, but if you’ve turned sideways and you unlock the rear wheel, you can do a highside--not something you do for fun!
A parking lot is the perfect place to practice-an empty parking lot that is. No need to terrorize the populace while they’re trying to use the lot. Start out at about 10-15 miles per hour. The techniques are the same for any speed, but you don’t need as much room to practice in if your speed is lower.
When you go back to the streets you need to add only one more technique--looking out for the other guy. If you’re braking hard, this means checking your mirrors before you start to make sure you’re not being tailgated. If you’re in a situation where you might have to brake suddenly, cover both brakes to cut your reaction time to about half. This shaves a few feet off what by now is your already- impressive stopping distance.
Rain can affect your stopping distance much more than it affects your technique. You can’t stop as quickly in the rain. Because you can’t brake as hard, not as much of your weight shifts forward. That means braking less hard overall and using a smaller percentage of front brake. Otherwise, techniques are the same.
Having some jerk with the brains of a carburetor pull out in front of you while you’re turning around in a parking lot adds another factor--stopping in a curve. When this happens, straighten the handlebars and the bike. Then stop. Don’t try to mix the two.
These few techniques and a little practice should get your stopping off to a good start.
Copyright © 1996 by Robert Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Two Up = Heads Up
by Jackie Vaughan
The person who occupies the back seat of a motorcycle has always been called the passenger. Now they’re called co-riders and it isn’t simply to be politically correct. The word passenger suggests a person who has no responsibilities for the operation of the machine; one who is simply along for the ride. A co-rider, on the other hand, shares some of the responsibilities for the safe operation of the motorcycle.
Sitting in the back seat means a lot more freedom to enjoy the scenery without worrying about the technical part of the ride. But with the freedom comes the responsibility. A co-rider does not have the right to bury herself in a book or to take a nap. A blanked out person on the back seat is of absolutely no help and may even be an additional danger if the ride has to brake or swerve suddenly. Her reflexive actions (such as to grab the rider wherever she can or to lean away) will probably be exactly the wrong ones.
The co-rider should ride as exactly that, a co-rider. Not a passenger, but a second rider. While it is always preferable that the co-rider has had a motorcycle safety course, even the normal street skills used in everyday driving will help in spotting hazards. Being an extra pair of eyes for the rider doesn’t mean being a back-seat nag. It means spotting hazards and knowing how the rider normally reacts and being ready to help in that effort. If the rider does not show that reaction, the co-rider should speak up. An experienced co-rider knows how hard her rider brakes during normal braking, and whether hard-line braking will be necessary. She prepares herself by holding the grab rails and bracing her feet. She does not slide forward, banging helmets and pushing the rider onto the tank. When she spots a pot hole or a large piece of rubber, she knows her rider will soon swerve, and she is prepared to let the bike move under her. She knows when it’s OK to move around, and lets her rider know when she’s going to make a move, such as scratching her ankle, that will affect the balance of the bike.
The rider also has the responsibility to communicate with his co-rider. He should let her know when a nasty bump is coming or if he wants to counterweight a turn. He shouldn’t play "surprise" just because he finds her reactions funny.
Two-up riding is a team sport. And that means working together to make the ride fun and safe for both.
Copyright © 1996 by Robert Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Why do I Teach?
by Robert Vaughan
I teach to see the magic.
I teach to watch people have a good time learning something new. I’ve seen over 2000 students come to class to learn about riding. Most had ridden. Some had never been on a bike before. All learned more about riding than they expected to. Learning something new can be hard work and very stressful. It can also be a lot of fun. For many it was both.
I teach to know I have done my part to reduce accidents. Most accidents happen in the first year of riding. The Basic Rider Course is considered the equivalent of two years riding experience. Getting the first two years riding done in one weekend on a parking lot is an easy way to sneak past the statistics.
I teach to introduce new riders to the joy of motorcycling. The joy of making a machine do exactly what you want it to do. The enjoyment of mastering skills, both mental and physical, which literally open new roads for the pleasure of riding.
I teach to meet new riders and make new friends. Many of my former students have become friends--friends I might meet on any road on any day. Where else could I meet so many people who enjoy riding?
But most of all I teach to see the magic. To see the magic of riding happen for people who came to class afraid even to get on a motorcycle. To see them start, struggling to control the clutch enough to make a turn, and finish being able to turn, swerve or stop with ease and confidence. To see the smiles on their faces as it all comes together for them when the bike becomes an extension of their bodies.
This is what teaching is all about--to see the magic happen.
This is why I teach.
Copyright © 1996 by Robert Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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Winter Warmups
by Jackie Vaughan
We’re lucky that we have a virtual year-round riding season. However, when the mercury hides in the bottom of the little red bulb, we have to make some changes in our riding style.
One of the big enemies of riders is hypothermia. Riding at highway speeds in cool or cold weather can deplete a rider’s body heat and leave him numb and fuzzy-headed before he realizes what has happened.
Even when the temperature is in the 60’s, the wind chill factor at speeds over 40 miles per hour is in the low 30’s. Riders often misjudge how cold the ride will be because they are freshly out of a warm house and standing still in the warm sunshine. At temperatures below 70°, they should dress in multiple layers, adding and subtracting as necessary. Not only do multiple layers provide versatility, they create insulated pockets of warm air. While it is common for riders to put on sweat shirts and jackets, the lower body is often ignored.
Thermal underwear and chaps keep feet and knees flexible and ready to function. Thermal socks and ski sock liners help keep toes cozy. Many ski shops offer an excellent variety in various weights. The old gray variety with the red toes will do the job also. A well-designed winter riding suit made especially for motorcycling is a bulky but very welcome addition to any rider’s wardrobe.
Lightweight riding gloves do little to protect from the cold, and supple hands are critical to quick responses to unexpected hazards. Ski gloves or winter riding gloves with gauntlet flares help keep hands toasty. Some riders add ski glove liners, or use three-finger mittens for added warmth. They should be aware, however, that any added bulk may make operating the controls more awkward.
A face shield is essential, and it should be firmly snapped in place. Those wearing three-quarter helmets may want to consider a ski mask or muffler to keep the chin and throat warm. There are excellent masks which cover the throat, mouth, and nose with a material similar to a lightweight wetsuit, yet allow the rider to breathe and speak comfortably. Some dealerships may have them, but they are more commonly found at sporting goods stores which offer a line of ski wear.
A luxurious, although expensive, way to keep warm is with an electric suit, gloves, socks, and even heated grips. They draw little current, but offer a lot of overall warmth.
Co-riders should be afforded the same clothing or more, since they often don’t get the same protection from the fairing that the rider does.
There’s a whole different world of riding in the winter, and we can enjoy it to its fullest if we dress properly.
Copyright © 1997 by Jackie Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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You Are Getting Very Sleepy . . .
by Robert Vaughan
It’s our two arch enemies, fatigue and drowsiness, talking to us again in their usual monotones. They are indeed powerful, but they can be beaten with a little knowledge and planning. Let’s practice the old adage--know your enemy. What are fatigue and drowsiness?
Fatigue is a weakness or weariness resulting from physical exertion or prolonged stress. It can be both physical and mental. Drowsiness is a state of lowered consciousness, reduced alertness, and dulled perception.
Knowing what they are is only the first part. We also need to know what causes them and how to fight them. They usually occur in prolonged riding because of monotony, tight schedules, heavy traffic, or bad weather. After two to four hours of continuous riding, the central nervous system becomes fatigued, senses become dulled, and perception is lowered.
Highway hypnosis can sneak up on you. Highway hypnosis is the drowsiness caused by lack of visual and physical stimulation while riding. Several things contribute to it--straight, unvarying roads, riding alone at night, few riding operations and being surrounded by the monotonous engine sound.
How can you fight these enemies? If you’ve had a hard day, physically or mentally, you need plenty of sleep before riding. Don’t plan to start out for Big Bend after work. Go home. Sleep. Leave the problems of work behind and get a fresh start in the morning. Plan the trip for no more than two hours of straight road at a stretch. Vary your speed, lane, and lane position. Listen to the radio, or better yet, talk on the CB or to your co-rider. Take rest breaks. They help to raise alertness levels.
Riding demands more attention and requires more skills than driving. You need that extra edge--not just when you start your trip, but all the time. A little planning can keep you sharp and safe for the whole trip.
Copyright © 1996 by Robert Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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You Must be Crazy to Ride a Motorcycle
by Jackie Vaughan
"You have to be completely crazy to ride a motorcycle. Those things are dangerous!"
How often have we heard that? Zealous four-wheelers are bent on saving us from our own stupidity. Of course our bulbs are dim. Anyone bright wouldn’t go near one of those two-wheeled death machines. "It’s too risky," they intone piously.
In a small part, they are right. There is risk involved in operating a motorcycle. There’s also risk involved in driving on a freeway, even in a tank. And it’s purely insane to sleep on a waterbed if we have cats. The trick is to manage the risks-and to not take dumb risks.
One of the main keys to managing risks is to take a motorcycle rider course, and to keep the mental and physical skills we learn sharp. Many skills are lost in six months if they aren’t practiced. Knowing good cornering and curve-riding techniques doesn’t do us any good if we don’t practice them.
Knowing our limits, the limits of our machines, and the limits of our environment and riding within those limits is also critical. We must remember that those limits change constantly and adapt our riding style to conform to them.
Superior riders never get themselves into situations requiring superior skills. Taking dumb risks is asking for trouble. If we keep pushing our limits, we will eventually exceed them, and the consequences can be devastating or even fatal. Riding faster and faster though a familiar curve can spell disaster when we’ve pushed our traction to the limits and there’s something unexpected in the road halfway through the curve. Riding fast in the rain just because we’re in a hurry makes no sense when we know we can’t stop quickly. Slowing down and putting distance between us and a hazard is sensible risk management. Replacing worn tires helps keep us safely stuck to the road.
Part of the challenge of motorcycling is risk management, and the sport wouldn’t be very enjoyable if we wrapped ourselves in cotton and surrounded ourselves with a cocoon of safety devices. However, the sport is more fun if we don’t have to worry about dangers we create for ourselves.
Copyright © 1996 by Jackie Vaughan.
This article may be used if I’m given credit and a copy of the publication.
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